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TRANSFORMATION OF THE WAVE SPECTRUM BY SEA CHANNELS

Iurii Dreizis

Abstract

The calculation of wave height, - length and - period changes which result from trans-formation by currents and bottom are needed when solving engineering problems of sea and river hydraulics. It is possible to carry to number of such problems also a problem of construction and operation of sea channels which has big economic value. Modern sea channels can have width several hundreds of meters and difference of depths on the way to the channel and on an axis of the channel twice and more. Therefore, in calcula-tions of roughness at the canal and behind the channel it is necessary to consider caustic effects of reflection of waves by the channel. Processes of distribution of waves through a profile of the channel, influence on pro-cesses of transformation of waves in and around the channel are considered. A bottom and a current offer the method of calculation of transformation of waves by sea chan-nels taking into account effects of reflection of waves. At the solution of various engineering problems of coastal hydraulics, coastal engineer-ing and at hydraulic modeling of such tasks, when performing engineering calculations parameters of a quasimonochrome wave are often used. It is shown that it is necessary to use carefully replacement of a spectrum of waves with a settlement quasimono-chrome wave at the solution of practical problems of calculation of a refraction of suita-ble waves on the sea channel. For such calculations, it is necessary to consider effects of reflection of waves a bottom of the channel and influence of a current on parameters of waves. Accounting of these factors will increase reliability of engineering calculations for such tasks as coastal sed-iment transport, bottom deformation, coastline evolution, etc.

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DOI resolver: doi.org/10.5593/sgem2019/3.1/s12.076

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